Forensics 2

GHOST HUNTING FORENSICS 2

Identification- In some situations it is just not a good idea to be without identification (ID), so we’ve heard. The most respected form of which would be a driver’s license or social security card. If neither of these options is available one could try arming themselves with a pictured school ID, their personal credit cards, or even perhaps a library card to help lend creditability.

Maps-It's easy to get turned around especially at night, even in a familiar area. If onsite and without a map one might try pursuing such avenues as gas stations, city chamber of commerce, any tourism center whether it be for the city, county or state. Another option if you are unable to find your way to your desired destination around a township of any size is to utilize parks and trails that usually have maps of surrounding areas. If you are able to research before you leave try scouring libraries (as in more than one), on the Internet any search engines (again don’t give up after the first search engine) the Department of Natural Resources (DNR). The state tourism office is usually very willing to help you find what you're looking for or someone who could help you since it is basically there job to get people into the state and spend money.

Compass- Like above it is truly possible to get turned around even in familiar places. If planning to use a compass for navigation, we highly recommend that one be learned in how to properly and fully use one. Orienteering classes will teach you how to use a compass appropriately and are available from most outdoors recreational equipment stores and normally don’t cost much if anything at all.   Now as for the compass being used as a ghost detection device of sorts it remains an economical and multi-faceted investigation tool. Never personally experiencing any paranormal effect on a compass we have however heard of the needle moving up to 30* off of north in ones presence. Presumably the effect of the “ghost” on the compass would not be long lived so be sure to keep your attention to it with out losing the general view of things.

Flashlight- As one may expect at least some investigations will be taking place during the darker hours of the day. Not having a light source is potentially dangerous for the fact that one could put themselves in an unsafe situation without knowing (stepping in hole twisting an ankle, or touching broken glass while feeling for your way etc.). Even if planning an investigation of any sort for the daylight hours you can never be certain if you may encounter a situation that calls for some added light such as a basement, cave, or simply spending longer than planned or having night come sooner than expected. Having more than one flashlight as well as spares is recommended for the obvious reasons that they have parts that wear out, break and drain.   Some people often use a 6 D cell maglite that gives off super bright light and doubles as a an impressive defensive tool. The choice of flashlights is large and varied. We recommend the most versatile and reliable when shopping for your next flashlight. Opting for a water-resistant or waterproof model gives one some more security and versatility when in the field but does also tend to add to the price for those on a tight budget. A good shock resistant model might be ideal, look for one with shock absorbent material on the exterior something like rubber trim may help reduce the risk of damage. A good segue to the next characteristic to watch for when buying a flashlight is the light source itself. The light bulb whether it be not described on the package (generally a good sign of a lower quality), xenon, halogen or a LED (Light Emitting Diode). When looking for the sturdiest and longest lasting opt for the LED models. The xenon and halogen are good quality choices for those not willing to make the change to the different technology (though most here would personally recommend at least trying one). The LED flashlights also come in a varied colored scheme usually white, red (perfect for night vision), blue and green. Well we have the casing and light source described so were just left with the power source. Obviously there are fancy and way expensive chemical filled flashlights like we see on some of the X-files episodes but we’ll refrain from going into detail about those right now. Most of us have battery and rechargeable power sources to choose from. GetGhostGear.com like's the idea of the rechargeable saving money in the long run and possibly being a bit more environmentally friendly. However I feel the need to point out the ease in which one can change a non-rechargeable battery source in the field as opposed to waiting for your drained rechargeable to recharge. Yes the other option available is to purchase a flashlight with a removable rechargeable power source and purchase two of them having one charged and in reserve for just such an unfortunate occasion. When doing this it does get costly but there is the point to make that one can normally run a rechargeable flashlight on other power sources such as a cigarette lighter in a car. When choosing a flashlight choose one that fits the investigations surroundings the appropriately (i.e. going to be going out on a lake make sure you have a floating and or water “proof” flashlight). Along with one normal flashlight, one might carry a flash-light fitted with a red bulb. Spending $1-$8 for supplies to alter a normal flashlight into a light source that won't impair your night vision may be a wise investment. Simply trace the lens size onto a durable yet transparent red material such as a plastic three ring binder, or several layers of plastic wrap (watch for the melting and whole fire hazard thing too). Cut out along traced circle and fit onto the lens (CAUTION placing to close to the light bulb or used for extended time may cause melting, burns and or fire, use at own risk). If you have time to shop around some flashlights do offer colored filters that fit the flashlight they are selling.

Black Light- A small battery powered unit will be sufficient in most cases. A black light may be used to aid in the detection of hoaxing devices sometimes found in a suspected haunted area. When used properly this light is capable of revealing thin laser lights, fishing line, holograms, transparencies, and other devices sometimes used in paranormal hoaxes. We have also heard some claims that UFO abducties were showing traces of foreign materials on/in their skin that are sometimes visible under different light spectrums.

Spot Light- What spotlights may lack in portability with heavy weight and bulkiness they make up for in brightness and versatility. Several distinctive features can be used to categorize spotlights. For simplicity we'll use candlepower and power source. Let's start with candlepower. Candlepower is a form of measurement used that tells the brightness level of a light source. Most spotlights range from 200,000 to 3 million or more candlepower. Power sources can range from multiple small cells, to singular large cell disposable batteries or a removable rechargeable battery pack. A unit with a rechargeable battery may cost a bit more to acquire but over long term use could easily counter act the original investment cost. The savings are accomplished due to the fact that they normally consume batteries very quickly with the large candle power. Some spotlights require an external power source such as a car's "cigarette" lighter so be aware of this before purchasing as this obviously may limit the options for use. For our paranormal needs we recommend a spotlight with a minimum of 1 million candlepower, with a rechargeable battery pack and an optional external power source as needed. Choosing a unit with these specifications or better allows you to see well in below average conditions, or through dense terrain as well as saving cost on long term use with limiting the need for replacement batteries. Other features to consider could be resistance to water, some even float, as well as creature comforts such as ergonomically adjustable handles and tripod setups for camp situations. Some manufactures also make available colored lens attachments. Using a red attachment on the lens of the spotlight will help you maintain your night vision (be extremely careful if altering with your own attachments for a red filter as spotlights get very hot). We do not recommend altering a spotlight for night vision with around the house products.

Lighter/Candle- Lets face it flashlights are prone to failure. Also for other unexpected situations where heat or even a cooking flame is needed this may come in extremely handy. If using disposable lighter opt for the clear-sided models to keep an eye on the amount of fuel left as well as a flame size adjustment feature. A windless, refillable lighter can cost more at first but can be more reliable and economical in the long run. Some folks here personally keep a Zippo with them during investigations where other colleagues do the same with windproof butanes.

Knife- A good multipurpose tool that could quickly become a necessity. Just a sharp, strong reliable blade for cutting yourself free of entanglements or just to have as part of your first aid kit for making splints, cutting slings etc. Know that in most situations police can consider any knife carried on a person a concealed weapon and could be subject to criminal charges and all around just not being treated very nicely. We opt for a blade with a black coating or better a black metal or ceramic construction as to keep any reflections down for data recording interference. Have to be thinking of every possible scenario for the 'spirit' photography and camcorders picking up the wrong flash of light.

Rope- When heading into unknown and unusual parts one can't be too safe. Given the choice have available a mold and rot resistant rope. The higher the weight rating and longer the length the more varied situations you'll be prepared for. Most ropes sold pre-packaged come in a length of 50 to 100 feet. This length is appropriate and can get quite heavy if opting for anything longer. Be sure that if the rope is to be used for any person's support or any possible life or injury-threatening situation that you research with adequate and qualified professionals. As in the case of the compass orienteering classes, the same outdoor equipment stores will most likely have climbing classes that will help you in getting started learning the appropriate techniques.

Two Way Radio- The price has decreased on multiple channel two-way talking radios. The prices have gone down but the options have gone up. For most situations we would recommend a model with a range of at least two miles that has a back-lit display, and a jack for a head set (the head set has an ear piece so you can hear and a microphone for you to respond). The two-mile range is pretty much an industry standard and anything less is undesirable for most situations. These units are not line of site reception however hills, buildings, walls and forest all can dramatically lessen the working distance between. A back-lit display gives you in the field ease of use but make sure you have the control of turning on and off the backlight (again for interference with your data recording devices like camera’s as well as effecting your night vision not to mention battery drain). The headset jack offered on the unit is a bit harder to find in the lower models but has been of our own experience to be worth every penny. What this feature allows you to do is plug a manufacturer recommended headset into the two-way radio. This headset has an ear piece or two just like you would find on a Walkman or Discman but in addition has a microphone that extends like the hands free cell phone kits required in some states to use while driving. Using this setup gives you hands free use of the two-way radio. You don’t have to push the button on the original unit to speak you just speak and listen as you wish.

First Aid Kit- Having one at the very least could allow you to continue the hunt in a much more comfortable state. There are compact kits that help you to Band-Aid a cut all the way to performing surgery. It is important that just purchasing a kit doesn't end your first aid duty. One should be knowledgeable on how to use its contents as well as be basically learned in the science of first aid and CPR. Many cities offer free or very inexpensive classes for certification in field first aid and CPR. A good place to check for classes is with your cities EMT’s (Emergency Medical Team) or nearest pool staffed with lifeguards, as they are required to be and stay certified. Also be sure to check expiration dates of all medicines contained within the kit and that the dosage and cautions be with them. If you’re not able or willing to purchase a first aid kit and have an excess of home health care products feel free to make your own as something may be better than nothing. If you choose to make your own please take the time to include dosage, directions and expiration dates with every medicine. Know the area in which you are traveling into. If there is a population of venomous snakes for instance be sure to include a snakebite kit and again know how to use it appropriately. Moleskin is an often overlooked but important ingredient in any home first aid kit recipe. Moleskin is applied to a wound or skin irritation where rubbing may prevent you from continuing in comfort.

35mm Camera- A 35mm camera changes light variations into images on a light sensitive film. What you normally find in the starting price range for this type of camera is one that has a magnification of only the 35mm, plastic lenses and fewer features. Those able and willing to pay a bit more will find they have a zoom magnification of 70mm+ as well as all glass lenses which will give a cleaner sharper image and allow for less glare. The higher end models also carry extended features like a flash, different optical settings such as panoramic, landscape, low light, a systems display screen and normally are a bit sturdier.

35mm Film- Your film options are many. Different brands, speeds, color, black and white, and infrared to attempt a categorization. As far as brands go we have personally used many and not noticed a distinct difference. We still opt for the more familiar name brands when able for the fact that we know if there is some sort of problem with the film we're able to contact some sort of customer service for the company. As well as being notified of any recalls (we’ll go into this further later). The major note with choosing a brand is the batch number or manufacturing date and location found on most packages. Looking for this information and making sure not all of your film comes from the same factory and all made on the same date can save some headaches later and lend credibility. Okay so let's assume that there is a human error, a technical glitch or a design flaw whatever it may be it may happen and most likely already has. So say you have your big investigation planned and everything in place. Then you get your film back from your trusted developer and at last you have something on the pictures, something. You were doing a supernatural, paranormal investigation and that is what you’re seeing on your pictures. So you praise to the heavens above and alert all news agencies with your findings. You explain there are unexplainable orbs, haze, beams of lights, shifting of the known setting, and you followed all the right protocols that you have in place and then well you find that the next story there running is a recall on film. This recall just so happens to be the film you were using on that very investigation. Sounds far fetched and a little much, well it can happen and that’s the rub. In other words shop around at different stores that turn inventory at different rates, and use mixed brands to lend credibility when something appears in more than one film real. Okay I’ll get off my soapbox. The speed options for film has to do with exposure duration. Choose a 200 speed for a track and field sprint race and you’ll have a cool effect sure but not a clear picture. With lots of motion and higher speeds you are likely to get blurry results. The same applies with the amount of light available and flash options. Choosing a 400 to an 800 for a non-flash darker setting may still yield a visible picture where a lower number will not. Then the trade off of course is a slightly grainier picture with the higher number when not needed. As for color, black and white or infrared film they are all good for there own reasons and should be experimented with until comfortable to use on an investigation. Black and white film some times needs to be developed at a special location capable of working with the different types of the film developing chemicals. In your travels you may here people refer to "true" black and white film over film that is not 'true' black and white. The main difference is the processing chemicals used to develop the film and the quality and depth of the end product. Most of your local super stores that have film developing capabilities will develop your black and white film in a color developing chemical without the color. This method is not going to result in a true black and white photo, losing quality and depth in your pictures. These places use what is sometimes called a C-41 chemical (color chemical) to develop their pictures. If you are unable to use any other film developing center other than a small local shop (without ‘true’ black and white developing) request that the film be sent out to a larger center capable of developing a "true" black and white film. Be forewarned that this usually costs a bit more but is well worth the results. The same goes for the infrared film. It has yielded interesting results in more than one investigation however does take some practice and understanding to use correctly. It normally is costly and has to be stored and handled appropriately (stored cold [NOT froze] & loaded and unloaded into your camera in complete darkness) or it is compromised. The procedure used here by the investigators at GetGhostGear.com has been to purchase the infrared film from a reputable photo shop that receives the film refrigerated from the manufacturer, stores the film refrigerated, and rotates its stock (infrared film has a very short shelf life). We recommend you build a relationship with your local photo shop clerks or owner. If you are doing investigations most likely you will be visiting frequently and will have opportunities to make conversation with them. Get to know them and they should not steer you wrong with the very sensitive infrared film. After purchasing the quality infrared film it should be refrigerated or used as soon as possible. Before using a roll of this film remove it from the refrigerator for about one hour. This allows for the film to slowly acclimate in temperature to a safe level before loading it into your camera to avoid fogging, and condensation that could harm the film and the inside of your camera. Make sure you don’t acclimate your film to a 110* heat wave that’s passing through your area, just a comfortable room temperature. Now a couple of points about your camera that you’re using the infrared film in. Some of the new models of 35mm cameras use infrared technology inside the camera itself that allows it to advance the film correctly. It is this technology that we want to steer away from in general when using it for paranormal investigations, positively when using infrared film. Using this film in a camera that has the infrared beam advancing technology will typically cause a fogging to appear on your negatives and developed film usually appearing along the bottom of the frame. Most 35mm cameras today have a small window on the back panel that allows you to see the roll of loaded film. When using infrared film it is a rule that you should not be able to see the canister or the film itself, ever. By leaving this window uncovered you are enabling the possibility of light contaminating your infrared film causing a fogging, light streaks and flares to appear on your developed film and negative. We recommend using a dark duct tape or black electrical tape and fully covering the areas of your camera that allow you to view the canister. We recommends familiarizing yourself enough with your camera so you’re able to load it with your eyes closed. Our recommended protocol for loading infrared film is to place your camera and closed film container in a dark bag. After placing it in a heavy sided bag, open the camera and film container and proceed to load the film. Close the camera and listen for it to fully load and you are finished. Oh yeah one more thing do all of this in a darkened area not in the middle of a sunny field. Infrared film can be found or special ordered at most specialty camera stores and will typically require sending it to a different location to be developed.

Polaroid Camera- A Polaroid camera changes light variations into images on a light sensitive film with immediate developing. This type of camera provides investigators with data for immediate review on site. The camera’s themselves are fairly inexpensive however you may notice a price increase while buying the film compared to the 35mm film. I also like the convenience of being able to file pictures of witnesses with the corresponding written interviews and alike documents.

SLR Camera- The bottom price range starts where the 35mm camera left off. The features on the camera are important for the fact that it is primary to start with a quality name brand that will be around awhile and a unit with quality parts throughout. Starting with this gives you time to build onto your SLR with a multitude of specialty lenses, filters, flashes and adapters galore. One can play around with the different options that SLR camera’s give such as setting the length of time you want the aperture open exposing the film to the light for an extended period of time. Your film options are many. Different brands, speeds, color, black and white, and infrared to attempt a categorization. As far as brands go I have personally used many and not noticed a distinct difference. I still opt for the more familiar name brands when able for the fact that I know if there is some sort of problem with the film I am able to contact some sort of customer service for the company. As well as being notified of any recalls (we’ll go into this further later). The major note with choosing a brand is the batch number or manufacturing date and location found on most packages. Looking for this information and making sure not all of your film comes from the same factory and all made on the same date can save some headaches later and lend credibility. Okay so let's assume that there is a human error, a technical glitch or a design flaw whatever it may be it may happen and most likely already has. So say you have your big investigation planned and everything in place. Then you get your film back from your trusted developer and at last you have something on the pictures, something. You were doing a supernatural, paranormal investigation and that is what you’re seeing on your pictures. So you praise to the heavens above and alert fox news with your findings. You explain there are unexplainable orbs, haze, beams of lights, shifting of the known setting, and you followed all the right protocols that you have in place and then well you find that the next story there running is a recall on film. This recall just so happens to be the film you were using on that very investigation. Sounds far fetched and a little much, well it can happen and that’s the rub. In other words shop around at different stores that turn inventory at different rates, and use mixed brands to lend credibility when something appears in more than one film real. Okay I’ll get off my soapbox. The speed options for film has to do with exposure duration. Choose a 200 speed for a track and field sprint race and you’ll have a cool effect sure but not a clear picture. With lots of motion and higher speeds you are likely to get blurry results. The same applies with the amount of light available and flash options. Choosing a 400 to an 800 for a non-flash darker setting may still yield a visible picture where a lower number will not. Then the trade off of course is a slightly grainier picture with the higher number when not needed. As for color, black and white or infrared they are all good for there own reasons and should be experimented with until comfortable to use on an investigation. I have heard people that swear by the black and white, that it some how picks up something that the color does not. The same goes for the infrared film. It has yielded interesting results in more than one investigation however does take some practice and understanding to use correctly. It normally is costly and has to be stored and handled appropriately or it is ruined. It can be found or special ordered at most specialty camera stores.

Digital Camera- Like the for mentioned 35mm and SLR cameras convert light intensities into images on light sensitive film, digital cameras electronically convert light intensities into numbers that are stored in a device such as internal memory or removable flash disk. Digital cameras can offer different features that can allow you to use it to capture still frame shots, streaming video footage or an arrangement of both. Also a point to take into consideration is the fact that some digital video cameras allow you to take still frame shots as well as streaming video as well as create still frame photos from your streaming video, (your head spinning yet). Don't fret all that information means is that if you're on a bit of a budget you might want to consider a higher quality digital camera or digital video camera that offers the features of both instead of purchasing one of each that offers the same features. Now you will not have as high of a quality that you would with buying a quality unit specific for each task, but you might have a little gas money to get someplace to capture some different pictures. Now that I mentioned image quality lets delve into that further. Digital cameras priced around $250 to $500 tend to have a lower resolution of 640x480 or less. These models normally offer a fixed focus, meaning you have no zoom feature that most of us are familiar with on our 35mm cameras, and a fixed focal length plastic lens. Those able and willing to pay around $500 to $1,000 are going to normally find a greater resolution with their pictures that will be above 640x480. The higher resolution will come in part from the glass lenses used in these models giving you a noticeably clearer, crisper image. Gaining a better picture with cameras in this price and resolution range will also be easier due to the added features like auto focus and greater zoom options. These higher end models also present the user with options for memory of the pictures taken. Say what, memory? As stated earlier digital cameras don't have film, they have memory like your home computer. The pictures or streaming video are stored in the camera for removal at your discretion. The storage size is currently measured in MB or megabytes. A unit with a 2 MB storage capacity will store 10-15 photos; subsequently 4 MB equals approximately 75 photos. Now the number of photos able to be stored depends on the quality in which they are. Some of the higher end models boast storage sizes of 260 MB equivalent to thousands of still images or 20 minutes of full motion video with audio. All of these MB and one little camera, well manufacturers have come up with more options yet. Most digital cameras have an internal memory storage source with some offering a removable memory storage unit in the form of a removable flash card. Some of the more high-end models offer both storage features. A display screen on some units allow for study of the picture on site, as well as freeing up memory space if you choose not to keep the shot. With it being the age of computers I can't very well go with out mentioning the added ease for persons in our profession to be able to download images directly to a computer for further detailed image analysis. However the jury is still out on the possible confusion that may occur with orbs and just other general funny stuff that can happen to computer like equipment. The point’s people are making with the orbs and digital cameras are that it is possible for a digital camera to miss a pixel or two when it reproduces an image. This “missing” for lack of better verbiage of pixels creates an orb like object that could be confused for a paranormal ghost orb. However with having my doubts there is an invaluable adapter for digital cameras that has just come onto the market. It is a very alien looking piece of equipment that attaches to the aperture or lens area of the digital camera and has what looks like a mirror on the end that raps around in a complete circle with no seems. It is this mirror that allows the photographer to take a complete 360* picture of the surroundings. I assume that with the right computer software you should be able to view and almost take a tour of the area moving about the seamless picture. This new technology for digital cameras has a great deal to offer our science. This will make mapping of investigation sites a breeze relative to the alternatives offered now of physically sketching the area. The technology will allow others via a computer and the www to lend there impute on possible cause and affects of the paranormal happenings just from the surroundings by viewing the seamless photograph. It costs around $1,000 however so most of us will have to wait for the price to come down as other companies release this for there products.

Holographic Plate/Developer- We hope to some day refine and utilize this technology to capture something along the lines of a three-dimensional photographic image of an apparition or equally obscure anomaly. More to come soon about this.