Ghost photography

 

 

 

When I first started ghost hunting, all I had was a tape recorder and a 35mm point and shoot camera. I would walk around cemeteries and take photo's at random. Out of 2 or 3 rolls of film, I would only have 1 or 2 good pictures and it cost me about $30.00 to develop the film. Then I invested in a thermal scanner. I would walk around cemeteries reading temperatures and when the temperature changed, I took a picture. Out of 2 or 3 rolls of film, I would get a dozen or more pictures for the $30.00.

These results were easier to pay for. I have found that it is best to use 400 speed or faster film when taking pictures. This increases your chance at capturing an image of some kind. I suggest investing in a thermal scanner and /or a electromagnetic field meter. Take readings of your environment and if an abnormal change occurs, start taking pictures. You will almost always have something on film. I stress ALMOST ALWAYS. Not everytime but more times than not.

Next you need to learn about what you have photographed. Most likely it will be an orb or a mist. If you got lucky, you have a shadowy figure of a person or a good clear transparent shot of a ghost. I have done some experiments with film and these suggestions may help you determine if you have captured a ghost or spirit on film.

"THE BROWN LADY"

This photograph of a ghost on the stairs of Raynham Hall, Norfolk, was taken in 1936.

ORBS: You will find that you see more of these than anything else. Read my article on "About Orbs" in the research section if you haven't already. This explains the theory behind orbs. There are many things that cause orbs to appear besides ghosts. Light, water spots on the lens, some dust particles and reflections. When you aim your camera at a light source such as a lamp or a flashlight, it will cause an effect on film that looks like a row of orbs that overlap eachother and they get larger as they get closer to the camera.

So if you see this effect, that may be the cause of it. These will be transparent in the middle but have a very bright edge to them and you sometimes see a mist of light in the path of the orbs.

Dust usually appears as several small orb like shapes in clusters in the photos and water spots from moisture will look like big globs in the photo. So make sure you have a clean lens and don't stir up a lot of dust walking around a house or a cemetery. Don't take photos while someone is using a flashlight or if there is a lot of lights in the background or surrounding area. Bugs can also produce orbs. They will be very bright and the light from a flash will reflect off of them.

When an orb looks transparent and no light reflects off of it. It is probably a ghost orb. When you are using the other devices to detect ghosts while taking pictures, if helps to rule out mistaking ghost orbs from errors.

CLOUDS AND MISTS: These are the second most common images captured when investigating ghosts. The best way to rule out other possibilities is to not smoke while taking pictures. Don't take pictures in foggy conditions, and wait for dust to settle if you have entered a room in an old house. Don't take pictures with shiny surfaces close by. These may reflect your flash and cause a misty image to appear.

The best advise in ghost photography is to know your surroundings. Know where everyone is that are with you and know what type of equipment they are using so you don't cast shadows and think you have a ghostly image on film.